Kato: GS-4 LokSound Micro Decoder Installation
The first thing to do is make sure it runs OK. Then we can continue with the installation. The tender comes a part very easy, pull the sides at the bottom and the shell will lift up and off. Take the weight and the weight holder out. Remove the spruces in the tender. Solder the red and black wires to the circuit board in the tender. Red on the right (engineer side) and black on the left.
Pull the cab back and up and it will lift off, the boiler lifts up and to the front. You can remove the spring clips that give power to the brush caps by using tweezers. Some people think that buy removing the motor tabs that the motor is going to move side to side and short out on the frame. The motor does not move enough to short out on the frame. I have ran the engine on the club layout all day with no problems at all. Solder the orange and gray wires to the brush caps. The orange wire goes on the engineer’s side, the gray on the left. The wires are then fed though a hole I made in the back of the boiler shell. With the cab removed you can then feed them under the bottom of the cab and into the tender.
I ran all of the wires under the weight box that includes the head light and gyra light wires (not shown). The speakers will sit in the front of the tender and the decoder will be in back. I did not put the weight back in because the two speakers, the enclosure and the decoder seem to weigh about the same as the original weight. Some black paint on the wires and they become invisible.
I used a Richmond Controls unit for the gyra light, and three volt bulb for the head light. Very easy access with smoke box cover coming off. I cut the number boards off of the head lights and glued them in. I also cut a short piece off of the head lights to make a lens and glue them in place I then used some styrene tubing to put the light bulbs in. I painted the tubing and the light bulbs black. Here are some random pictures that include my helper.
Richmond Controls Gyra Light: The diode is for the gyra light as per Jim at Richmond Controls. The resister is for the 3 volt bulb.
The orange stuff is silicone to seal all of the holes in the enclosure.
I also installed Z scale couplers on the front and back. The front is a 901 and the rear is a 905. You will have to shim for the correct coupler height.
Kato has done a great job; this engine is excellent running and very easy to work on.
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Monday, 23 February 2009
Since 02-Oct -00
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